domenica 25 agosto 2013

sunny beach

turkey is a nation - from what i can see - full of expansive open balanced fun-loving helpful individuals.    even the old men are fun-loving; you can see it on their calm amused smiles as they sit in the shade drinking tea as you walk past with your rucksack.  it is possibly the ideal place in which to be a foreigner.   maybe, as shokouh remarked, the turks are not particularly deep thinkers.  perhaps many don't have a flagrant reflective element to their personalities, but that does not matter because they are friendly and will bring you a coffee when they see you making a sign saying BULGRISTAN at the petrol station, and the locals and the loggers will stop and take you most of the way to the border.  the fields give open expansive views to everywhere, fields covered with bending tall sunflowers, which yield lot of little black seeds which you can push out with your thumb.  an open and empty landscape, road animated only by the occasional black car swishing past with german or austrian numberplates.  no honking buses, ragged pedestrians, men on bicycles or overloaded carts - that has all been left behind in india.  just a silent moon who rises at dusk and oversees the calm cool expanse of fields.
i wanted to learn some bulgarian - at least enough to say:  hello, i am going to burgas.  but there was no need to say anything, nobody wanted to stop for me anyway, all i had to do was pay the man on the bus that eventually swung past my shaded spot at the side of the road   everyone has come to the beaches that line the black sea here - a place called sunny beach: big hotels and beach restaurants and cafes and bars.  women walking everywhere in a scanty state of undress that would shock any indian.  a woman's sexual attractiveness is solely to be beheld by her husband, so why does she parade publically like that?  women are sexually liberated here.  the menfolk know this and do not pay any attention to her sexual liberty as she passes.  maybe the men throw an all-encompassing glance, but they know that to linger with their gazes would be inappropriate.  look, she is all but naked there on the beach.  yes, but also here there is a fine nudity line which should not be crossed. she does not want to excite men's attention, she only wants to be free, to feel the sun on her skin, like any liberated inhabitant of the planet who loves to feel the sun on his skin.  ioana and i said:  lets meet at isolated iralkli beach.  when?  3 or 4 or 5 days time?  okay.  if you are not there after a few days, i will wait a few days more.  okay, i will be there.  i have a pot for cooking, and coconut oil.  okay, i will bring food.   see you on the beach!  what satisfying terms for an encounter; it is thither i now repair.

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